The King: more biofuel and less polygamy
These last days, this corner of the world looks different to me. Now I see Benin through the eyes of a friend who is in Africa for her first time. Milica.
She is from Serbia and very well traveled but she is experiencing the Sub-Saharan African shock, in a positively way, I believe. The only thing she really disliked up to now is to pee in the bushes. Not for ladies like us. Evidently, to urinate in front of kids who want to see a white person in that embarrassing situation is a transforming experience.
We saw a Bariba King (Roi de Kaounde), visited the magical world of healers, mediums and herbal remedies and illegally crossed the border to Togo for a tuna sandwich. It took a Serbian-passport holder a visit to Africa to be able to cross a border free of visa hassle. Interesting.
There is a long pre-colonial history of kingdoms in Benin. Wikipedia does not tell me how many kings rule (traditionally rule) Benin's non-urban areas but my impression is that people still follow these charismatic, polygamist figures quite a lot. The king did not seem very busy though, Milica insisted that we should ask him about his daily routine. He basically meets some wise men for coffee and chat and gives advice to people on funeral arrangements, weddings...etc. The king of course has a Minister of Information, who was placidly sleeping by side.
Visiting Sa Majeste was quite a ceremonial visit, we entered his premises barefoot, left some gifts for him (soap) and a small donation for the children. Since the area produces quite a lot of maize we explained to the king what biofuels are; He did not know much about that but he showed curiosity. We wondered if he knew something about the financial crisis, Obama and the world beyond his royal borders. The answer was that he watches public TV channels in Bariba, his native language. To our question of what does Benin need the most he told us 'education to be like in your countries'. Suddenly, in that dusty royal space I felt that more than education they need an injection of capital, vocational training and roads, oh please, good roads.
Interestingly, and despite having two wives and eleven kids himself, he favored monogamy, 'Polygamy is very expensive, we need to spend money that we don't have'. Milica and I are quite interested in the polygamy practice. As observers, I hereby clarify for our boys' peace of mind. Asking a local if his two wives argue, he told us that as long as there is food there are no arguments. The thought that in our western world you might get pissed off if your boyfriend forgets your anniversary felt bittersweet.
She is from Serbia and very well traveled but she is experiencing the Sub-Saharan African shock, in a positively way, I believe. The only thing she really disliked up to now is to pee in the bushes. Not for ladies like us. Evidently, to urinate in front of kids who want to see a white person in that embarrassing situation is a transforming experience.
We saw a Bariba King (Roi de Kaounde), visited the magical world of healers, mediums and herbal remedies and illegally crossed the border to Togo for a tuna sandwich. It took a Serbian-passport holder a visit to Africa to be able to cross a border free of visa hassle. Interesting.
There is a long pre-colonial history of kingdoms in Benin. Wikipedia does not tell me how many kings rule (traditionally rule) Benin's non-urban areas but my impression is that people still follow these charismatic, polygamist figures quite a lot. The king did not seem very busy though, Milica insisted that we should ask him about his daily routine. He basically meets some wise men for coffee and chat and gives advice to people on funeral arrangements, weddings...etc. The king of course has a Minister of Information, who was placidly sleeping by side.
Visiting Sa Majeste was quite a ceremonial visit, we entered his premises barefoot, left some gifts for him (soap) and a small donation for the children. Since the area produces quite a lot of maize we explained to the king what biofuels are; He did not know much about that but he showed curiosity. We wondered if he knew something about the financial crisis, Obama and the world beyond his royal borders. The answer was that he watches public TV channels in Bariba, his native language. To our question of what does Benin need the most he told us 'education to be like in your countries'. Suddenly, in that dusty royal space I felt that more than education they need an injection of capital, vocational training and roads, oh please, good roads.
Interestingly, and despite having two wives and eleven kids himself, he favored monogamy, 'Polygamy is very expensive, we need to spend money that we don't have'. Milica and I are quite interested in the polygamy practice. As observers, I hereby clarify for our boys' peace of mind. Asking a local if his two wives argue, he told us that as long as there is food there are no arguments. The thought that in our western world you might get pissed off if your boyfriend forgets your anniversary felt bittersweet.
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